Many firearms dealers, hardware stores, and sporting goods retailers stock our products; give your local shop a call to see if they have them in stock. Find a dealer on our Dealer Locator page.
Our headquarters is not open for retail sales – it is an employee only facility.
No. Our mission is to only sell you an item we have in-stock and ready to ship. You can sign up to be alerted by e-mail when an item comes back in stock, and of course, feel free to reach out to us and we’ll let you know what the latest scoop is on inventory.
We do take backorders for dealers and distributors. Reach out to your local dealer and express your interest in getting your hands on our products, and we’ll do what we can to make it happen when they contact our sales team.
Sorry, we do not ship outside the fifty United States (not even to US Territories) at this time.
We’re working on it. We know there are many people all over the world interested in our products, and we’d love to share them.
Unfortunately, we do not offer any career based discounts.
We don’t control what other websites post. Most coupon sites just make things up.
If we offer any coupons, you’ll hear it from us directly.
Flamethrower ownership is generally legal in the United States without requiring any sort of background check.
As the product name states, it is simply a long range torch. However, Maryland and California do have restrictions regarding such devices. The city of Warren, Michigan also prohibits possession via local ordinance.
In Maryland, flamethrowers are outright prohibited to possess due to falling under the state’s definition of a destructive device (not the federal definition).
In California, non-stationary devices that are designed/intended to emit a burning stream at least 10 feet are prohibited without a license issued by the State Fire Marshal. We’ve developed a nozzle that reduces the output distance to less than 10 feet to create a compliant version that does not require a permit/authorization. Nozzles are replaceable and available in our store for those out-of-state trips or transfer to a new owner.
Check with your local laws. It is your responsibility to understand and adhere to all relevant regulations.
The Pulsefire Long Range Torch system is a liquid fuel flame throwing system that is built to be as safe as possible for a device of its nature. Our team developed every aspect with user safety in mind. For example:
- The nozzle design helps keep fuel and flames at the nozzle instead of dripping back toward the user.
- The ignition system is on-demand; no need for an open flame pilot torch or pressurized butane.
- The fuel storage tank(s) are non-pressurized, like any typical gasoline powered outdoor tool.
- A check valve between the pump and nozzle prevents fuel flow between activations.
- A valve built into the nozzle allows you to completely shut off flow and prevent leakage or accidental activation.
- A low voltage cutoff circuit prevents over-discharging the battery used to power the unit.
Of course, flame producing equipment is inherently hazardous. Good judgment is key to maintaining personal safety. When the battery is connected, and the power switch is on, pressing the trigger switch will generate fuel and flames up to 30 feet away if there is any fuel in the reservoir. We recommend to always transport the device with the battery disconnected to prevent accidental activation.
No. There is not enough air inside the plumbing to facilitate a flame front that is in any way harmful. The convoluted and tight-tolerance geometry inside the fuel pump combined with an ultrafine metal screen mesh provide built-in flame arresting properties. The tiny nozzle orifice and all-metal check valve also contribute to this resistance. There will always be some level of liquid fuel trapped inside the plumbing even when apparently “running on fumes” due to the components and paths involved.
As it turns out, when you connect the battery, turn on the system, and press the trigger, fuel and flames might be emitted.
It is literally the first warning in the user manual:
We test every single unit before shipment using a chemical similar to mineral spirits, which is flammable. There very likely will be a small amount leftover inside the plumbing. As always, don’t take all the steps to shoot fire if you’re not ready to shoot fire.
A rechargeable high-output lithium polymer battery (included) provides the 12V power required to the high pressure fuel pump and ignition system. This type of battery is typically used in radio controlled vehicles. You can see the specifications on the battery product page.
Turn off the power, blow out any remaining flames at the nozzle, and unscrew the fuel cap. Pour in gasoline or a gas-diesel mixture and re-tighten the cap. It’s that simple.
Fully charged, it should power the system for about 15 full tanks of fuel, and 2 full tanks using the backpack. Environmental conditions as well as variations in manufacturing (of the battery, nozzle, pump, fuel reservoir etc.) can affect this capacity.
Keep an eye on the voltage gauge – at about 10.5 volts the system will cut power to the trigger to alert you that it’s time to change or charge the battery. Extra batteries are readily available at local hobby shops, Amazon, or through our store.
No. It would require a significantly more powerful (and much heavier) fuel pump, along with a nozzle to match. The current system is achieving maximum performance with the type of fuel pump used.
We have used fuel pumps well above the current production unit’s flow and pressure capabilities as well as various nozzle shapes and orifice sizes without resulting in significant changes in performance.
The system as it stands balances fuel efficiency, distance, weight, and size, accommodating the vast majority of individuals.
Make sure there isn’t a snake nearby, but yes, the check valve in the center of the cap can and will flutter under various conditions, producing a hissing/whistling sound. You can quickly equalize the pressure difference by opening and closing the cap, but it may continue shortly thereafter. It’s commonly in a state of being partially open.
If you aren’t experiencing reduced performance or liquid fuel leaking, your valve is operating normally. The check valve opens slightly to allow air in to replace the fuel drawn out and prevent a vacuum condition. As long as it is able to open (you can gently press it with a pick or screwdriver from the outside and see how easy it is to move) and it seals any liquid spills, everything is exactly as it should be.
Nature of the beast. We’re sending a stream of fuel out of a nozzle at high speed with the goal of achieving maximum distance with the inputs supplied as well as being useful (igniting your target). To do so, enough fuel is required to maintain the stream’s range and support continued ignition of what you’re aiming at.
How much of the stream and the scattered particles around it ignite depends on temperature, humidity, wind, fuel pressure, fuel velocity, electrode position, nozzle geometry, etc.
Gasoline (unleaded, any octane) will produce a bright hot flashy flame and produces the most reliable and brilliant results.
A gasoline-diesel mixture (up to 50% diesel) is what you want to use for burning foliage. Gasoline will keep the mixture above its flash point, and the oily diesel fuel will keep the fire going until whatever you’re burning is well-done. Do not use or store diesel below 32 °F.
Since we receive countless questions about it – yes, kerosene can be used as a substitute for diesel. Yes, you can use “white gas” camping fuel. You can basically use any petroleum based fuel as long as it’s low viscosity (thin).
Do not use alcohol fuel and colorants – the pump will be destroyed. Alcohol itself is a difficult one to work with because you can’t see the flames until it’s dark out, and it’s usually too cool to reliably ignite at that point (its flash point is around 50 °F).
No. We use a tight tolerance high speed fuel pump with a fine screen mesh filter that is designed for low viscosity, non-conductive fuels. Napalm is for more simplistic valve based high pressure systems. The modern day equivalents are typically 60+ lbs.
Firefighters and forestry users will typically use up to 50% diesel fuel in order to slow the burn while also increasing the flame temperature. It’s a bit more oily and clings to things better.
If the spark/arc is occurring and the fuel is not being ignited, it is due to one or more of the following:
1. The outside temperature is too cold, causing minimal fuel vapor to be present. If you are trying to operate in very cold temperatures, and yours is equipped with a pulse-style ignition (loud, blue sparks like a stun-gun), you may need the arc ignition kit, which allows for reliable ignition down to at least 0°F with gasoline.
2. The fuel is not flammable. For example, trying to use 100% diesel, which is not typically flammable unless it is in an environment that is at least 125 °F to sustain combustion.
3. The electrodes are not positioned optimally. This becomes more important as the temperature drops or it’s breezy, as that fuel vapor needs to be in the path of the spark. If the electrodes are:
- Too high – the spark won’t touch enough fuel vapor.
- Too low – the fuel might quench/drown the spark.
- Just right – you’ll have reliable ignition.
The position shown below is ideal. You want a 5-7 mm gap between the tips, and the tips to be basically a hair above being centered on the stream. That way the arc travels just along the top of the stream, imparting all its energy into the fuel vapor.
Are the electrodes clean and white or are they covered in black carbon?
Carbon is conductive and will short things out, allowing the high voltage generated by the ignition to travel from the metal electrode wire to the nozzle shield, giving it an avenue to course through everything. As it mentions in the maintenance section of the user manual, simply wipe the electrode insulators clean. Use brake cleaner if necessary for extremely stubborn buildup, and you should be back in action.
In the extremely rare case that the issue persists even while the insulators are shiny and white, contact us and we’ll investigate and resolve the issue for you.
The system should be able to send out a continuous appearing blast of flaming fuel 25 feet in length at the beginning of each blast you send. When holding the trigger down, the fuel and flames will pull back slightly due to the fact that after the initial stream is emitted, we are sending fuel into an already existing fireball and burning it up faster.
If your system seems to suffer significantly shorter distances (< 15 ft), one or more of the following is happening:
1. Wind is negatively affecting the stream’s consistency, causing it to scatter and atomize into droplets more easily and burn up faster. We are working on a solution to increase the resilience of the stream when it is windy. If you have access to an indoor warehouse or otherwise windless environment, place a rock or other marker at the 25 foot mark and have someone film from the side as you send a few 2 second bursts. If it doesn’t reach the marker in a windless environment, consider items 2 and 3 below.
2. The stream is contacting one of the electrode tips. If the stream physically contacts the electrode tips, it will cause a severe reduction in performance as it scatters and breaks the stream immediately as it exits the nozzle. Adjust the electrodes so there is room for the stream to pass by. Video instructions are available on the Instructions and Manuals page.
3. There is a problem or obstruction with the fuel system (check valve, pump, or nozzle). Either something’s clogging things up, the check valve is stuck partially open, or the pump has an issue. Contact us and we’ll figure it out quick.
Gasoline naturally wants to become vapor, and it will form up to about 10-11 psi in the process if contained. The check valve up front between the pump and nozzle opens at about 5 psi to allow fuel flow. That’s enough spring pressure to close the valve and pinch flow between each fire blast without hindering performance, but it’s not strong enough to prevent the vapor pressure in the tank from forcing the fuel out once it builds. Depending on temperature/sunlight/humidity etc. this can occur pretty soon after you set the unit down or take a break from shooting.
Not to mention, there’s always some fuel inside the nozzle itself between the exit orifice and where the check valve seals, which is why the nozzle end can often act like a candle until you blow it out.
We developed a nozzle with a built-in manual valve (standard on Pulsefire UBF) which not only acts as a secondary safety (the pump cannot overcome the valve), but it prevents any fuel in the system from making its way out the nozzle. Particularly useful on backpack equipped flamethrowers where there will likely always be leftover fuel between uses.